Traditional Osso Buco

Osso Buco, literally meaning "bone with a hole," is one of Milan's most treasured dishes. This magnificent braised veal shank dish showcases the Italian philosophy of slow cooking, transforming simple ingredients into something extraordinary. The tender meat, rich sauce, and precious marrow make this dish the epitome of Italian comfort food.

A Milanese Classic

Originating in 19th century Milan, Osso Buco has become synonymous with Lombard cuisine. Traditionally served with risotto alla milanese, this dish represents the sophistication of Northern Italian cooking. The slow braising process breaks down the tough connective tissue in the veal shanks, creating meat so tender it falls off the bone, while the marrow inside the bone adds incredible richness to the sauce.

The authentic recipe calls for veal shanks cut crosswise, about 4-5 centimeters thick, so each piece has a circle of bone surrounded by meat. This cut is essential because the marrow is a key component of the dish's flavor and luxury. While some modern variations use other meats, true Osso Buco can only be made with veal.

Essential Ingredients

For serving four people, you'll need:

• 4 veal shanks, cut 4-5cm thick
• Plain flour for dusting
• 4 tablespoons olive oil
• 50g butter
• 1 onion, finely chopped
• 2 carrots, finely diced
• 2 celery stalks, finely diced
• 3 garlic cloves, minced
• 300ml dry white wine
• 400g canned tomatoes, crushed
• 500ml beef or veal stock
• 2 bay leaves
• Fresh thyme sprigs
• Salt and pepper

For the Gremolata:

• Zest of 2 lemons
• 4 garlic cloves, finely minced
• Large bunch of fresh parsley, finely chopped

The Cooking Process

Preparing the Meat

Start by tying kitchen string around each veal shank to help keep the meat attached to the bone during the long cooking process. Season the meat generously with salt and pepper, then dust lightly with flour, shaking off any excess. This flour coating will help create a beautiful crust and thicken the sauce later.

Searing for Flavor

Heat olive oil and butter in a large, heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. When the butter foams, carefully place the veal shanks in the pot and sear until deeply golden brown on both sides, about 4-5 minutes per side. Don't rush this step - the caramelization creates layers of flavor that are fundamental to the dish. Remove the shanks and set aside.

Building the Base

In the same pot, add your chopped onion, carrots, and celery. This vegetable combination, called "soffritto," is the aromatic foundation of many Italian dishes. Cook gently until the vegetables are soft and sweet, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for another minute until fragrant. The vegetables should absorb all the flavorful brown bits left from searing the meat.

The Braising Liquid

Pour in the white wine and increase the heat, scraping the bottom of the pot to release any caramelized bits. Let the wine reduce by half, which concentrates its flavor and cooks off the harsh alcohol. Add the crushed tomatoes, stock, bay leaves, and thyme. Bring to a simmer, then return the veal shanks to the pot, arranging them in a single layer if possible. The liquid should come about two-thirds up the sides of the meat.

The Long, Slow Simmer

Cover the pot and transfer to a preheated 160°C oven. This gentle, even heat is perfect for breaking down the tough connective tissue. Cook for about 2 to 2.5 hours, checking occasionally and adding more stock if the liquid reduces too much. The meat is done when it's so tender it nearly falls off the bone but still holds its shape.

During cooking, occasionally baste the exposed parts of the shanks with the braising liquid to keep them moist. The sauce should reduce and thicken, becoming rich and glossy. If the sauce is too thin when the meat is done, remove the shanks and reduce the sauce on the stovetop until it reaches the desired consistency.

The Gremolata Finish

While the Osso Buco rests, prepare the gremolata by mixing the lemon zest, minced garlic, and chopped parsley. This bright, fresh condiment is traditional and essential - it cuts through the richness of the dish and adds a wonderful aromatic complexity. Make it just before serving to preserve the vibrant flavors.

Serving Tradition

Traditionally, Osso Buco is served with risotto alla milanese, the saffron-infused rice that's also from Milan. The creamy risotto is the perfect vehicle for the rich sauce. Alternatively, serve with soft polenta or mashed potatoes. Place each veal shank on a bed of your chosen accompaniment, spoon the sauce over generously, and top with a generous amount of gremolata. Provide small spoons so diners can scoop out the precious marrow from the bone - this is considered the best part.

Professional Tips

Choose shanks that are uniform in size for even cooking. Ask your butcher to cut them from the center of the leg where the meat-to-bone ratio is best. The marrow bone should be intact and the meat should look fresh and pink. Some cooks tie the shanks with string to help them keep their shape during the long cooking time.

Make this dish a day ahead if possible - like many braised dishes, Osso Buco tastes even better the next day when the flavors have had time to meld. Reheat gently in the oven, covered, until warmed through. The gremolata, however, should always be made fresh just before serving.